One of my more ambitious and successful body restorations.
It's my 2003 Ford Ranger.
I also did a successful bypass of the egr valve on
my 1995 Ranger; saving myself a $1200 bill for egr
and exhaust manifold replacement.
It's like having two new trucks again.
I've fallen in love with my trucks all over again.
I'm converting the 1987 Ranger in the background to
electric in 2023 or 2024. It's totally rust free.
Greatly looking forward to doing that.
Here's the egr valve bypass story and picture:
(from one of my web pages)
Perhaps this description of my successful egr bypass
on my 1995 Ford Ranger will apply adequately to your
For someone (like me) who drives his truck only
occasionally, the following bypasses are not
necessarily poor environmental choices. I drive
my truck less than 1,000 miles per year. Consider
the environmental impact of producing a new truck.
My rusty egr valve assembly fell apart (or "blew up"
to quote my mechanic). My mechanic suspected that
my catalytic converter might be plugged up and
perhaps contributed to my egr valve's demise.
Out of prudence, I bypassed my catalytic converter
prior to bypassing my egr valve.
I have no photos from before the egr bypass,
but below you'll see the photo taken after the
Refer to this photo while reading the text
below the photo.
This was almost entirely guess-work. I could hardly
believe it when it actually worked perfectly.
"A" is the metal pipe whose top was, and still is,
slid into the intake manifold. That pipe has now
been cut near its low end and plugged with epoxy
plumber's putty. Shove plenty of putty into it
as deep as you can.
Since I left what's left of the egr assembly in
place, I used it as a brace to hold pipe "A" in
place; otherwise pipe "A" would slip down and
out of the intake manifold. In other words,
the top portion of pipe "A" (which has been
plugged at its low end) is held in place by
the bottom portion of pipe "A". (The bottom
portion of pipe "A" is still attached to the
defunct egr assembly.) You'll see that I used
epoxy plumber's putty (with some washers filling
the space left by the saw cut) as my crude splint.
I think you'll find a way to make a cleaner
And note that even though I left the remains of
the egr assembly in place, it is not connected
Smooth rubber tubes "B" and "C" are left
connected to the rectangular gizmo near
the top of the engine.
Rubber tube "B" has the smaller diameter
of those two smooth rubber tubes. Its low
end is now connected to the low end of the
ribbed rubber tube "D" which remains connected
at its top to some gizmo "E". Both those
tubes (B and D) were initially connected
(at their low ends) to some area of the
Tube "C" (the fatter smooth rubber tube)
was initially connected at its low end to
a small metal tube coming out of the large
egr metal pipe "F". Tube "C" is now plugged
with a bolt. The two short yellow lines in
the photo show where tube "C" was cut.
(Gravity is causing the low end of tube "C"
to dangle lower than before it was cut.)
Large nut "G" is what the metal pipe "F" from
the egr assembly had been attached to before
I broke the pipe off from that nut.
It encases the pipe coming from the exhaust,
just below the exhaust manifold. It has now
been plugged with epoxy plumber's putty.
Shove plenty of putty into it as deep as
you can. (Alternatively, you could saw
through pipe "F" without breaking it off
from nut "G", and then just plug the portion
of the pipe leading to the nut "G".) My saw
cut of the metal pipe "F" is indicated by the
short orange line on the photograph.
Leave all electical connectors plugged in.
Before starting your engine, disconnect the
negative terminal of your battery and leave
it disconnected for at least five minutes.
That will allow your truck's computer to
reprogram itself to accomodate the new
configuration once the engine is started.
It might take fifteen minutes of driving
for the computer to fully adjust.